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For
most people visiting South Greenland, the adventure begins at Narsarsuaq
airport, which has flight connections with Denmark, Iceland and the rest
of Greenland. The airport was built by the US Air Force during World War
II as a transit point for planes flying to and from Europe, and has been
an international civil airport since 1959.
Some of the former airport buildings now serve as a modern hotel
with all facilities, and nearby are a youth hostel and camping grounds.
During summer, South Greenland fully lives up to its Icelandic name,
Graenland, as this is the most fertile part of the country. In fact most
of the country’s flora is found in this particular region. The winter
climate is relatively mild, and summer temperatures reach 16-18°C.
Because of these conditions, the economic life of this area is also very
different from the rest of Greenland, with sheep farming and agriculture
playing an important role. If you take a boat trip along the fjords you
will see isolated sheep farms, some of which have paths and rough roads
leading to them, while for others the only contact with the outside
world is by boat or radio. The
sheep are rounded up in September, and some 20,000 lambs are taken on
flat-bottomed boats to the abattoirs in Narsaq, one of three sizeable
towns in South Greenland. Many
sheep farmers have built cabins near their farms, where guests can stay
for a day or two before they continue on foot to the next farm.
The
abundant fertility of this region was also the reason why Eric the Red
chose to live in South Greenland in around 985 AD, after he was exiled
from Iceland. According
to the Eric Saga and Greenlander Saga, it was actually Eric the Red who
called this country Greenland. After he had spent three years in this
region he returned to Iceland to convince his fellow countrymen of the
fine opportunities for starting a new life here in this 'Green Land'.
He was successful, and the new immigrant community grew.
Farms and churches were built and a bishopric was established.
The sagas describe voyages of discovery sailing north and westwards to
North America, long before Columbus reached those shores. Among the
chief attractions of this area are the remains of churches and farms,
which date back to these Norse settlements that survived for more than
400 years. Farm buildings have been reconstructed in Qassiarsuk, and
there is also a reconstruction of Thjodhild's Church, the first
Christian church ever built on the North American continent.
But South Greenland is not just known for its fertility, mountains and
abundant flora. It also has
glaciers, icebergs in all shapes and sizes, and fantastic Northern
Lights, which can be enjoyed from the end of August.
The field ice is a remarkable phenomenon in South Greenland. This ice is
formed in the Arctic Ocean north of Greenland and carried by the ocean
currents down the east coast, round Cape Farewell and up into South
Greenland's bays and fjords. Unlike the icebergs, the field ice consists
of enormous, up to three metres thick sheets of frozen salt water, which
are in constant motion.
The field ice sometimes isolates towns and villages in South Greenland
for periods of time during spring and summer, and then only helicopters
can supply the provisions and services. The field ice also brings seals,
and seal hunting and fishing contribute to the local economy as well as
sheep farming. The distances between towns and villages are usually
quite short in South Greenland. The journey from Narsaq to Qaqortoq, for
example, takes only two hours by boat and twelve minutes by helicopter.
It only takes another twenty minutes by helicopter to reach Nanortalik
in the far south. This means that even during a short visit to South
Greenland you will have the opportunity to explore towns and villages,
glaciers and historical sites as well as the distinctive culture of the
region. |