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The
worker, weaver, traveller and dairymaid, Sigríður Anna Jónsdóttir, was
born at Gerðarkot, at the foot of the West Eyjafjoll
Mt Massif on January 20th, 1901. Later,
in the spring of that year, her parents moved
to Moldnupur in the same region. She developed
such strong ties with Moldnupur,
that all her life she tied her name to the
place. She was raised there,
she played and worked
in the traditional countryside way, but also with a good share of
culture, reading and conversation. In her youth Anna once accompanied
her father on a fishing tour off the south
coast, and always fondly recollected this
experience.
Anna attended school for eight weeks each winter from the age of ten
to fourteen. Then she undertook an apprenticeship in weaving and
though still in her youth, was soon beginning
to weave for people. When the Laugarvatn Provincial School was founded
Anna took the opportunity that it offered and went through some
further schooling. She was in the school’s upper class during the
winter of 1929-30. To finance her studies Anna
borrowed 400 Ikr. Her father and
brother signed as guarantors. She called
this money her dowry.
However, that winter in Laugarvatn was not enough to satisfy her
needs for education. At the end of it Anna
continued on to Reykjavik and began studying
at a school, which offered instruction without
attendance. While doing this she also was
working for a living, mainly by weaving. Later she applied for
permission to spend a winter in school in order to prepare for the
school matriculation exam, but this was denied her. Unfortunately she
never became a college student, but instead pursued her own education.
This continued all her life and took the form of reading, travelling
and studying foreign languages.
Anna’s first published writings were newspaper articles. She appears
to have first burst forth onto the literary field late in 1942, with a
straightforward article in the Althydubladid
newspaper about church buildings in Reykjavik.
The article led to a polemical exchange with the historian Sverrir
Kristjansson, undertaken by Anna with much
zest. During the following years Anna initiated similar debates with
other prominent people. They centred on matters
of politics and culture and Anna appeared to be a representative of
the viewpoint of the general public. She was not to be browbeaten
anywhere. She was convinced that her viewpoint and opinions had as
much right to be heard as those of the “upper class gentlemen”, as she
sometimes termed her opponents. She also wrote much on countryside
issues, for example on the plight of farmers after the eruption of Mt.
Hekla in 1947, and on the great loss suffered by her rural neighbours
when their library was burnt to the ground. It was almost as if it
were Anna herself that had been destroyed.
Around the middle of the century Anna mostly gave up writing newspaper
articles. She was approaching fifty and had been seized by an urge to
travel. In the spring of 1947 she boarded a ship intent on spending
the whole summer in Denmark, even though at the time her only previous
foreign travel had been one trip to England. The following year Anna
went to England and continental Europe. In the summer of 1950 she went
to Paris, and she travelled south to Italy in the summers of 1956 and
1959.
Anna wrote books about all these travels. A Dairymaid goes out into
the World was published in 1950 and A Woman Traveller in Paris came
out two years later. Others included Love and Diamonds in 1954 and I
lit my Candle in 1961. The last journey Anna wrote about was her grand
tour of America in the summer of 1964, which was narrated in the book
Two Seasons (1970). In addition to these travel tales Anna also
published the children’s story An Ancient Adventure (1957) and a book
of memoirs about her father entitled Following in his Footsteps
(1972).
Anna published all these books at her own expense and did most of the
marketing herself. All her travelling was done on a shoestring
budget, but with plenty of optimism and hardiness. Travelling
about she followed her grandmother’s motto: “If God intends you to
live then he will provide.”
Anna’s travel tales are lengthy and precise descriptions of whatever
she beheld. They show how the world appears in the eyes of a
traveller. She had a great interest in the culture of the countries
she travelled and was most diligent in visiting churches, museums and
notable antiquities. She did everything to acquaint herself with the
people of the world she came across. It helped,
that everywhere she went, she could speak the
native tongue. She was fluent in English and Danish and could get by
in French, German and Italian.
Anna was a frugal traveller, which resulted in her getting into many
amusing situations. All her life she needed to live as frugally as
possible and her dealings with those who provided her with shelter are
often amusing. It would be difficult to find a traveller who was so
spartan in her diet. Coffee was the only thing she could never say no
to, except on one occasion up in the Eiffel Tower where the price was
too exhorbitant. Nevertheless she was never mean and when the
circumstances arose she would give to the needy from her own few
kronas. In spite of her tightly rationed
resources Anna somehow always managed to get home before the money ran
out, though a reader of her books often fears that she won’t make it.
Anna of Moldnúpur passed away in Reykjavík in 1979. Without doubt her
life’s experience ranks among the richest of 20th century Icelanders.
Hotel Anna's website - Sigthrudur Gunnarsdottir |